One of my teachers asked me to prepare a kind of lecture where I would explain my feelings from my year in Japan. More specifically, she wanted me to address the things that made me feel happy, sad, and surprised or scared. The students got a kick out of it, and though you, the reader, don’t have the benefit of me acting like a monkey or furiously sketching things on a chalkboard, you might enjoy my thoughts. Keep in mind this is something of a year-in-review, so I may have told some of these stories before.
Happy:
Friendly People– No doubt about it, the thing that made me happiest was the friendliness of the people I encountered. The teachers and japanese friends I made never hesitated to help me out when in a fix. Some people were kind enough to invite me into their homes to share a meal with their family. Big kudos to Fukushima-sensei especially, who came out on a Sunday evening to jumpstart my car, who helped me sell a few things on an online auction, and for showing me the lone, secret air-conditioned room in the school.
Also, random strangers were often quite nice. Many small gifts of beer and food were bought for only a few moments of conversation. I was often stopped and questions were asked, people were genuinely curious towards me. Of course, there was a case or two of people being TOO friendly (the dry cleaning lady comes to mind).
Nature– Kagoshima is easily one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. The lush green mountains, the tumbling rivers, the brilliant green of the rice fields, the emerald green of the dense forests, the green green everywhere green. No matter how beautiful you may be, be humbled by the knowledge that the southernmost tip of Japan is more beautiful. Also, try not to compete in beauty contests against landscapes, you will be at a disadvantage.
And the critters! Readers of this blog are undoubtedly well-aware of my appreciation for living things. Dolphins, primates, raccoon-dogs, thousands of stray cats, huge spiders, fantastic beetles, violent caterpillars, shimmering dragonflies, swimming snakes, vocal bullfrogs. This place is a biologist’s dream.
Sad:
Winter– It snowed maybe two days in Kagoshima, but I never saw any ice. I think the temperature didn’t really drop below 45F degrees. Yet I don’t recall ever being colder in my life. At the office, teachers stood clustered around kerosene heaters muttering “cold…cold…cold…” I would return home, fire up the electric heater, cover myself in blankets and sit in a corner playing video games and sipping vodka to stave off the cold.
Japanese people have a remarkable capacity to not notice things that may prove inconvenient later. They build houses in the summer, when its hot, without consideration for what it’ll be like in the winter.
The early darkness of winter, the inescapable cold, and the sorrow of being alone made winter terrible. I wouldn’t be keen on making it through another one. I’ll take my -30F Chicago winters if it means I can take my jacket off when I go to sleep because my home keeps the heat in.
Television– I was never a big fan of television in the States. When I got to Japan, I viewed TV as an excellent tool to work on my Japanese. However, I soon found I had no desire to understand inane self-glorifying babble.
The same group of celebrities (usually a mix of whichever one-trick comedians are popular at the moment, a handful of sexy airheads, and some actors from the current hot drama) are seen in commercials, and on every show. Game shows don’t award the average-joe, they pit people who are on TV anyway against each other to give them silly prizes. A disgustingly popular show is sending a couple comedians to different restaurants to try the food… without fail, they try a bit, then mug the camera with a delighted face and yell, “Oishii!” or “Umai!” (’delicious!’ or ’skilled!’, the only two possible things to say about food) The most heinous is what I guess is a “guest show” where they will literally have a dozen celebrities sitting around all fancied up, and then they show them various prepared clips… comedy, documentary, food-eating, whatever. The home audience will watch these clips, but with a little picture-in-picture up in the corner filming the celeb’s fake, overly attentive reactions (Thanks to Buck82 for this example).
It makes me sad, because I have a feeling tons of people at home aren’t sure how they should react emotionally without seeing how a retard who wears a blowfish on his head is reacting. The television itself pisses me off, the social implications fills me with despair.
Finally, to be fair, there is occasionally some decent stuff, primarily children’s programming. Its honestly creative and intelligent, despite being made for kids, and there’s none of the overhyped celebrity crap or commercialism. Its a lot lighter on the scary-people-in-costume stuff that american kids shows thrive on.
Historic Ignorance– On the anniversaries of the atomic bomb drops on Japan, the population observes a few moments of silence for the victims of the nightmarish event. On the flipside, most Americans are well aware that the military dropped nukes on Hiroshima and Nagasaki. Maybe they don’t know all the details, but they’re certainly aware that it happened. However, though Japan recognizes itself as a wartime victim, the general populace as little awareness of Japan’s greatest warcrime in WWII… The Rape of Nanking. My friend Abs mentioned Nanking to one of his good japanese friends and coworker. The teacher laughed uneasily and said, “Well, that didn’t REALLY happen.” Abs stared back incredulously… um, yes, it did.
Nationalism is on the rise in Japan, and when coupled with historic and political ignorance, that’s a scary thing. “Facts” and “information” are quite handy for making “good decisions” that don’t result in national financial ruin and enormous death tolls.
Scared:
Mountain Roads I may have mentioned before, the roads can get crazy-narrow in Japan. Lanes wide enough for only a single car allow 2-way traffic. These are frightening enough to drive. If you then raise these roads half a mile above a valley floor, and sprinkle them will fallen rocks and tree-limbs, and when half the concrete washes out and they just prop metal sheets to act as a temporary repair over the crumbling road, then you have a seriously scary driving experience on your hands. I have white-knuckled my way through mountains, racing the setting sun, squinting through heavy fog, and dodging manic pheasants.
In retrospect, it was awesome. At the time, it was VERY SPOOKY.
Food Overall, I enjoyed japanese food thoroughly. I’m pretty much completely omnivorous now, and there is little that can turn my stomach. However, on a few occasions, my stomach was turned.
When a cooked crab was lifted and a brown ball rolled out from its innards, I was startled enough. When I was informed it was the crab’s BRAIN, I was mortified. Crab brains can roll.
When I bit into a battered fish and felt sand in my mouth and on my face, and I looked down to see that I had bitten into the fish’s belly which was swollen with little white eggs, I was also upset.
Lastly, when an entire fishhead was set before me in a bowl (and only its head), I gazed into its glassy, collapsed eyeball. “Fish eyes are healthy for your brain!” said the nihon-jin as he plucked his own fishhead’s eye out and ate it.
I also have a pretty nauseous memory of squeezing some kind of pickled seaweed out of a plastic packet into my ramen.
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Well, that’s my wrap-up. Of course, the english was a lot more simplified for my students, who, for the most part, can’t speak english. Thank you for letting me get used to speakin’ all natural-like again! And I hope to see you all soon between my return home and my trip out to Arizona State.
(final note: I wrote an article for a scholarship competition held by an organization called HAMSA. I made it into the top 60 of 2500 applicants! That’s like the top 2%! Amazing! Unfortunately, I didn’t win one of the five or so cash prizes, but I will be receiving a book prize on liberalism so that my future future-essays are more suitable for changing the world. Check out the winners’ essays.)